Housing Your Snake

What type of cage does my snake require?

Smaller juvenile pets often do well in a 10 or 20-gallon aquarium, or even large plastic "lunch" boxes (cut small air holes!). As your snake grows, he must be moved to a more comfortable enclosure. These can often be purchased or built by the pet owner. Your veterinarian or pet store may have examples of these larger enclosures to give you an idea of the proper habitat for an adult snake. Basically the vivarium should be at least as long as the snake.

Climbing (arboreal) species require branches to climb up and hang off. Care must be taken that this does not bring them into contact with heat sources.

Does my snake need bedding in his cage?

Substrate, or bedding material, should be easy to clean and nontoxic to the snake. Paper, including newspaper, is recommended.

AVOID sand, gravel, wood shavings, corn cob material, walnut shells, and cat litter, as these are not only difficult to clean but can cause impaction if eaten on purpose or accidentally should the food become covered by these substrates. 

What else do I need in the cage?

Natural branches are enjoyed by the snake. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the snake and injure it. Ideally, the branch should slope from the bottom of the enclosure to the top and end near a heat source so the snake can bask. Rocks (large ones) in the cage also allow for basking. A hiding place is appreciated by all reptiles and should be available. Artificial plants can be arranged to provide a hiding place, as can clay pots, cardboard boxes, and other containers that provide a secure area.

"Natural branches are enjoyed by the snake. Make sure they are secure and won't fall onto the snake and injure it."

A heat source is necessary for all reptiles, which are cold-blooded and need a range of temperatures to regulate their internal body temperature. Ideally, the cage should be set up so that a heat gradient is established, with one area of the tank warmer than the other end. In this way, the snake can move around its environment and warm or cool itself as needed. Purchase two maximum-minimum thermometers and place one at the cooler end of the cage and one at the warmer end near the heat source. The temperature range can then be accurately assessed so it can be modified to fit the preferred range of your species of snake. Overhead heat sources such as ceramic heaters or bulbs are best. These should be surrounded by caging to stop the snake contacting them.

Heat pads can be used to provide supplementary heat at night – they are rarely effective as a sole heat source. They should never be used on the ground under the snake, but should be fixed to the side of the tank/vivarium. 

"Hot Rocks" or "Sizzle Rocks" are dangerous, ineffective, and should be avoided!

Humidity is an issue for some snakes - a gradient should be established much as it is for temperature. Bear in mind though that snakes from tropical areas generally prefer much higher humidity - extra misting may be needed. However, over-watering is not necessarily good - bacteria breed well in stagnant warm water so a wet “squelchy” vivarium will predispose to many problems.

A bath should always be provided - this should be large enough to allow the snake to bathe. Water should be changed daily.

What about UV light?

While UV light is necessary to provide Vitamin D-3 for most reptiles, veterinarians are divided about the need for UV light for snakes. This is because snakes consume whole prey as the diet, and the prey is "nutritionally balanced" for snakes. However, providing UV light